Apartment in the 16th Arrondissement

Hello fellow travellers. After only a week, we are in an apartment in the 16th. It is fairly spacious and quiet, not words I usually associate with Paris apartments! The reason for the quiet is because we are off a courtyard, not one of the streets. We enter off rue Mesnil through a coded gate, and our apartment is on the 2nd floor towards the back of the courtyard. The picture is taken from the apartment entrance towards the street entrance.  Our building is 5 stories, but the one across from us is only 2.  If the sun comes out, we should have good light.  And I think we have a southern exposure, which should be nice when winter comes.

Today, we did a little reconnaissance. We went up and down the spoke-like streets from Place Victor Hugo (one of which is ours).  Many of them are upscale residences - lines of classical buildings.  We stumbled on a fancy private club Saint James Paris near Av Foch, a wide boulevard that leads from Arc de Tromphe to the huge greenspace of Bois de Boulogne.  We passed embassies for Honduras, Ivory Coast, Argentina, the Congo, and Lebanon (spread out throughout the area).  We window-shopped along Av Victor Hugo - lots of expensive clothes stores, jewelry shops, and chocolate (one place had a huge chocolate sculpture).  But our best find was nearby rue des Belles Feuilles with had 2 butcher shops (each with roasted chickens), 2 Chinese take out places (that both looked good), numerous fruit/vegetable shops and some fromageries.  The Chinese and chickens are particularly useful when you need a quick idea for dinner!

There are a number of florists nearby, but expensive!  We did find one place to buy some small geraniums and ivy to put in our window boxes.  Debbie gardened while I returned to get a chicken for dinner!  There are also a variety of lunch places nearby (which I never get to see as they tend not be open on weekends).  Theres are 2 nice grocery stores, Casino and Monoprix, very nearby. 

If you read about the 16th, the guidebooks don't have too much to say about it.  It is one of the larger arrondissements, running along the west edge of Paris.  The east side is bordered by the Seine and Eiffel Tower.  The north side butts up against the Arc de Tromphe, and the west against the big greenspace Bois de Boulogne.  At the south end you find Roland Garros, site of the French Open.  We didn't spend much time in this area before.  I was told that it is very chic.  We'll let you know...  Over the course of our walk, we saw the Arc de Tromphe at one end, and Eiffel Tower at the other.

American Returns to Paris

Bonjour! I have returned. Debbie and I have been back in Courbevoie for almost a week now. We left Tucson last Saturday morning, arrived in Paris Charles De Gaulle airport Sunday morning. By noon we had checked into the Adagio next to Parc du Millionaire. That first Sunday, we rushed over to the Monoprix to buy some groceries before it closed (we remembered that there would be no place to eat on Sunday evening). Then we took a "brief" 2 hour nap (could have continued sleeping). Followed this with a walk around la Defense to show Debbie where to get the metro and pick up some tickets. After a long walk, returned to Adagio and ate some of our groceries, unpacked, ironed shirts, watched the French Open, and went to bed. Right now, it gets dark here at about 10 pm, so you don't feel you need to sleep until late.

The week was... interesting. I worked each day, so that was normal. But our first order of business was to find an apartment. Pickings were slim - Debbie had e-mailed agencies to arrange visits, but some locations were rented before we even arrived. We did manage to visit one on Tuesday in the 16th arrondissement near Place Victor Hugo. Long story, short - we took it.  Rather amazing to find a place on the first visit and get it. The area seems good (at first glance - we'll let you know). It is near interesting areas, but off a courtyard away from the street so it should be quiet. There is a nice marche' nearby, and various shops and restaurants. It is on Rue Mesnil, not far from the Victor Hugo metro stop. It is closer to my work, but I'll have to change lines at Charles De Gaulle Etiole.  I timed it today, and it only took about 10 - 15 minutes.  We also went to look at another place in Pont de Neuilly on Wednesday evening, but decided it was not really our style.  It was on a broad, leafy boulevard, set well back from the street - we imagine it is like Park Avenue in NYC.  We are more of a Brooklyn type.  Besides, it was a long walk to the metro...

We visited l'Olivio, my friend Marwaun's restaurant in Courbevoie.  He and Catherine were quite surprised to see us.  Their daughter Lucy is now in her last year of high school - all grown.  We had dinner and talked.  Quite nice to be able to return somewhere and be greeted as an old friend!  Speaking of which, it was nice to return to work and see many of my former colleagues.  Most remembered me very well (maybe good, maybe not so good...).  Mid-week I got to meet my co-workers from the UK.  Of the team, only Hamish is a hold over from 2009.  They were all off earlier in the week for the Queen's diamond jubilee.  Seems like a good group.  Lorenzo, one of the team, made reservations for us all to go out for dinner on Thursday night.  We went to le Coupe Chou near the Sorbonne.  When we arrived, Debbie and I realized we had been there before.  I even have it on my spreadsheet of restaurants (3 1/2 stars of 4 possible - my rating).  Small world.  This was our fanciest meal of the week - others have been pretty simple (pizza, steak & fries, salads, etc.).  Today, we visited our future apartment and had an early dinner / late lunch at Cafe Victor Hugo (croque-madame), which I can see returning to (our waiter spoke quite good English).  Took a little walk to the Trocadero across from the Eiffel Tower, then back to la Defense.  Yep - I'm back.  Au reviour.

L'Institut Vatel

My last week in Paris was eventful in the sense that I think I went out every night - it was exhausting! My colleagues took very good care of me! I have never had a send off like this. I started the week with friends at Livio (my favorite Italian in Nueilly), then at Chez Janouz in the Marais. But the ultimate meal was mid-week at L'Institut Vatel - this is a culinary school. It is named after the person that managed the kitchen and events for King Louis (I forget which one). He had such passion for his work that he killed himself when the fish was not delivered for a big event. (Now, I was told this story - it's just hearsay, you know).


But I can vouch for the institute and the meal! We had a group of 14 or so from both my company and the client. There was a special menu - "Chris Farewell", with starter of Ceviche or Foie Gras, and plates of Ris de Veau (veal), Fricassee de Homard (lobster), or Filet de Boeuf (steak). After the meal, there was an assortment of formages (cheese), and finally le chariot des desserts (about 15-20 dessert choices). It was excellent food, and also nice to be with the group I've worked with. Yes, I took all the deserts (and no, I didn't eat all of them completely - just tried a bite of each). It was a memorable night!


Then on Thursday, the "Order to Cash" team I've been working most closely with took me to lunch! Friday, the office had breakfast pastries and juice for me! It was all a bit overwhelming. I can say that I've never had such hospitality from a customer before. I was tempted not to leave, and see if I could get the treatment again a month later or so!


I spent my last Saturday in Paris taking a long walk through the most famous sights of the city. I left in the morning, followed the river to the Louvre, through Tuiliries, Place de Concorde, Champs Elysees to Arc de Triomphe, then to the Trocadero and Eiffel Tower. I got home in the evening to finish what was left of food in the apartment and reminisce on the last 6 months. It was an amazing experience - once in a lifetime opportunity that I was lucky to have.

It's a bit sad to wander Paris on your own on your las day - definately an experience best shared. But I'll close with quotation from Hemingway (I recommend A Movable Feast - read it while you're in Paris): "That was the end of the first part of Paris. Paris was never to be the same again although it was always Paris and you changed as it changed... There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it."

Au revoir.

Old and New

In case you've been following, you may have noticed no updates in the last couple weeks. Well, my computer crashed on Tuesday night 10/23 a week and a half before I returned to the US. So no updates. Still unsure if I'll be able to recover anything on it (which means I may loose one weekend of pictures - oh, and some work stuff!)

Just to catch us all up a bit, I had just 2 weeks left in Paris after returning from the US. I tried to do as much as possible during the time. But I found that I just couldn't sustain the pace (you can only go to so many museums, and eat out so many times!).

I wanted to get back to the Louvre, and also see the Pompidou. Saturday was rainy - a perfect day for the Louvre. It was a bit crowded, but I chose to skip the most popular wings and spend more time in the Sully looking at French masters - Hubert Robert, Jean-Honore' Fragonard, Decamps, and Eugene Delacroix. Took lunch in a cafe in the Richelieu wing, overlooking the courtyard. Once again, I closed the place down after about 6 hours wandering around. It is easy to spend lots of time, and even see new things. (I did swing by Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo - just seemed like the right thing to do.) After spending the day, I walked around Palais Royale and Comedie Francaise a bit and then took the #1 metro back to the Marais - it was crushed. Just did what I always do - cram in there shoulder to shoulder (or whatever). You know, before coming to Paris, the guide books suggest taking a money belt and beware of pick-pockets. After more tight metro rides than I can remember, I never saw or encountered anything like that. I don't think it's any different than anywhere else.

I decided to return to one of my favorite restaurants for dinner - Le Petit Marche'. I arrived at about 7:30 and was told that the kitchen didn't open until 7:45. So I occupied myself with a kir outside while I waited. Had the same waitress as on Debbie and my original visit (who spoke good English - so I could talk to her a bit). I had another good meal there, but it's not quite the same when you're alone. One thing I noticed is that there are not many single diners out there in Paris. It's not like in the US where you see business people out eating alone. Most everyone in the cafe, bistro, brassiere, etc. are in couples or groups. You can have a nice dinner, but I recommend you find a place with an interesting view if you're alone!

On Sunday I went to church (and learned that they set the clocks back an hour on Oct 25 - a week earlier than the US). While I waited for church, I strolled through a display of photos across from the Branly Museum. As you walk around Paris, you never know where you will see some cool public display of art or amusements. These photos were really interesting, indigenous photographers - I ended up late for church! I tried a different route back afterwards - took the RER C line (which goes along the river and drop you off at Notre Dame - just a change of pace). I noticed there was no line at the cathedral, so I went in (since I hadn't during my whole stay). So I got to experience Mass at Notre Dame, complete with incense and Latin (at least I think that was what it was).

I spent the afternoon and evening at the Pompidou - quite a change from the Louvre! I must say I prefer the older stuff. But, if you're in Paris for 6 months, and walk by the place almost every day, you have to go see it! There are some interesting things, but the best part of the Pompidou is the view from the top floor - especially as the sun sets. You can see the whole city. There's some Picasso and Chagall paintings that I like, but I can't get into the abstract stuff. There was a big display of Pierre Soulages, a French artist. Well, most of his work was different textures of black paint on huge canvases. I will say that there were lots of people there - I think it is quite popular. There was also a display of female artists that had all kinds of bizarre stuff! I'm glad I went, but I wouldn't go twice (at least not in 6 months!).

Sunny stroll on the Seine

Welcome back fellow travelers. I returned yesterday after a couple weeks in sunny Tucson AZ - to an overcast, drizzly Paris. I don't seem too jet lagged, but time will tell. I kept moving yesterday most of the time (did take a couple hour nap mid-afternoon). I managed to get a full night's sleep (with the aid of Excedrin PM) and was ready for Sunday.

Sunday was absolutely gorgeous! Paris seems a bit quieter in October (I guess I will learn for sure tomorrow when I take the RER). It was sunny and brisk. I wore my leather jacket for the first time going to church this morning. After church, there was a tour of the church, so I went on that. Learned this is the first American Church on foreign soil - established in 1814. I think the current location is the 3rd for the church, and was built in the late 1920's. There are 2 Tiffany windows (that were originally commissioned for a previous church site). They are the only 2 Tiffany windows outside the USA. The organ is from Beckerath in Hamburg, Germany, has 3,328 pipes, and weights 18 tons. Crazy, huh. In the evening, they were having a music program put on by the various church music groups (which include 4 choirs - adult, young adult, youth and kids choirs; and 2 different handbell groups). So I returned for that also.

In between, it was such an excellent day, I just walked. I decided to head for the Bombardier next to the Pantheon (British pub that has Sunday roast beef dinner with Yorkshire pudding). It is a bit of a haul, but the walk is nice along Invalides and Babylone. I was disappointed when I got there, though. The place was closed (and it's only supposed to be closed on Christmas!). They had some sort of water problem (which I could smell from outside). I didn't really have a backup plan, but I did just finish Hemingway's Movable Feast on the flight back. So I headed up rue Cardinal Lemoine to Place Contrescarpe, his old stomping grounds. There are cafes surrounding the plaza, so I just picked one and settled for croque madam (no roast beef dinner, that's for sure). There was a flea market in the square, so I just ate and watched the crowd (pictured below). Nothing of interest at the market that I could tell.

I walked back down to the river afterwards and headed back towards the church. I followed Ile de Citi on the shady north side until it ended, then crossed over to the sunny right bank. The road along the river was closed to cars, so you had lots of Parisians walking, rollerblading, cycling along. I joined the group - got a bit sun burned! By the end of the day, I think I probably put in about 8 or so miles. My legs feel like it too. Au revoir.

Back in the US of A

I left my apartment at about 8:30am on Saturday and 21 hours later emerged from the car in the driveway in Tucson - a bit groggy and worn. The initial flight from Paris was delayed about 2 hours because the radar system in Scotland that monitors our flight path was down. This cause me to miss my connection in Dallas, but I did make a later flight (just barely - last one to board). And my bags caught up with me the next night.

Well - I'm glad I don't have to do that too often. I do make the trip 2 more times in the next month, which doesn't sound great. When I consider that one of the original ideas on this project was 3 weeks in Paris, 1 week home - that would not have been good for anything except frequent flier miles! It was quite different my last trip when I flew to Boston (less than 10 hours for that - easy). I conclude that you want to live on the east coast if you plan frequent trips to Europe.

Now that I'm home, I have spent most of the week 1) in front of my computer completing my Solution Definition Documents (which I submitted yesterday - yeah!), 2) going to doctors, dentist, barber, and 3) trying to get into a sleep routine. So far, the only night I have managed to sleep past about 3 am was one with the aid of Excedrin PM and half a pitcher of margaritas. Oh yes, I have also had 2 dinners out at Leo's for Mexican food and barbecued 3 times! That was also good.

The first thing I noticed on Sunday is how wide all the streets are here - not just the main streets. Even the neighborhood streets are wider than the big streets in the Marais. Then, of course, there are mountains and a sky that goes on forever. I find that I miss the walking quite a bit. Sure it's possible to walk places, but it's not the same. First, most everyone is driving - the pedestrians are the minority by far. And as you walk, you won't pass any boulangeries, no assortment of stores for food, wine or deserts, and there are few if any outdoor cafes to take an espresso or beer. I guess that is what I noticed and missed right off. On the other hand, I have not noticed the smell of urine anywhere here!

I'm back to France a week from today - probably just as I get into proper sleeping habits again. Then 2 more weeks until I leave. I've determined that I will do something every night / day during those last weeks. No days off. I'll see how that goes for me. Stay tuned!

Beers of France

Well, fellow voyagers - I feel my time in Paris draws to a close. I packed to return to Tucson on Saturday. I will return to Paris for a few more weeks at the end of October, but then this phase of the project ends. Who knows what will happen after that. I also cleaned the apartment, washed some clothes and made my own dinner (hamburgers and canned corn!) - it's been rough since Debbie left!

As part of my cleaning, I disbanded my beer bottle collection. It was sad, but recorded for posterity. I guess it doesn't seem like so many choices for 3 months in the apartment, but I seldom bought the same beer twice. I had some good beers, and some not so good! I'd say in general that French specialty beers are a bit too fruity and carbonated for my taste, but you can get a few that are more in a Belgian tradition. I guess those were my favorite. If you're interested, Sainte Columbe, Page 24, Thomas Becket and St Rieul were all quite consistently good (especially Sainte Columbe). Hercule Stout (Belgian) and Trappistes Rochefort 10 were probably the best - but you need to take a nap after either one! Perhaps I should try to take one before my trip on Saturday! But even the bad beers had some very cool labels and bottles (one of my main selection criterion). One thing I can tell you, if you like fruit flavored beer, the French styles taste more like soda or very fermenty (if that's a word). Stay away... only one of about 8 or so was good (my professional opinion). Au revoir.