Saturday, November 10, 2012

Busy weekend in Paris

Our time draws to a close in Paris, so last weekend we attempted to handle some unfinished business.  We hoped to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower at night, but were disappointed to find that the top is not open at night very often outside the summer months.  We tried on Friday evening on our way to meet friends Marwan and Andrea for dinner in the 15th.  So, we just settled for dinner at Caffe Cambronne (good onion soup and confit de canard), and no Eiffel Tower.

On Saturday, we wanted to see Opera Garnier.  We were frustrated to learn that it was not open in the afternoons due to performances.  It's the third time we've been there without seeing the place (the other times, it was open, but we just decided to see it later).  Debbie may have to go herself in the morning!  The reason for going later was that it rained each morning of the weekend, but cleared in the afternoons.  We waited for the rain to stop before starting our site-seeing.  Instead of going to the opera, we walked back through Parc Monceau to Arc de Triomphe, and then paid to go to the top.
283 steps to the top and excellent views all directions!  We stayed for a while taking pictures.  Then went home for a quiet evening.

Sunday, we planned to go to church but woke again to rain.  Debbie's feet got wet as we walked to church, so she had to return home.  I ended up going to the City of Architecture and Heritage Museum in Trocadero on my own (instead of church).  Primarily, it features pieces from entrance ways and other structures from churches throughout France.  There were some secluded sections away from the main exhibits that included paper models and architectural artwork, and also ceiling frescoes.  I enjoyed the museum - the Trocadero was the perfect venue for large structures. 

By the time I was done, the skies had cleared so Debbie joined me.  We took the #6 metro to Edgar Quinet to see an arts and crafts open air market near Montparnasse.  As it turned out, it was primarily artwork, some quite nice - not many crafts.  This area is quite popular, but we really have never spent any time in it.  Its vocal point is Tour Montparnasse, the tallest building in Paris proper - you can't miss it!  It was the skyscraper that caused Paris to restrict future building heights.  You get a direct view of it below the Eiffel Tower if you look from Trocadero.  It stands all alone like a giant tombstone.  It does look out of place.  It has a rooftop restaurant with the reported best view of Paris - I'm sure it does, but have never tried it.

From there, we walked north past Bon Marche to Musee d'Orsay and stood in line for a while.  Stopped on the way at an Eric Kaiser for lunch of quiche, sandwich and hot tea.  It was free museum Sunday (first of the month), so d'Orsay was busy.  We passed time in line talking to a friendly man from Switzerland in front of us (wanted to know who would win our presidential election - a common question for us).  Once in the museum, we spent most of our time in the special Fashion Exhibition (which opened shortly after our last visit).  This showed the actual clothing, and then paintings that incorporated the clothing.  Paintings were from famous painters such as Manet, Monet, Renoir, and more.  Really enjoyed both the displays and the artwork.  The artists were some of our favorites.  We stayed until closing time, and then walked to Concord in twilight just as the city lights were coming on, a very nice time of the day in Paris.

Took the #1 metro up to Charles de Gaulle Etoile, and then climbed up the Arc de Triomphe again!  This time, it was night.  So we had our views of the city in both daylight and at night.  Although the night lights are nice, daytime was better for me.  Paris may be the city of light, but at night the recognizable sites are limited.  We did enjoy seeing the daily ceremony to attend the flame of the Unknown Soldier.  Every evening at 6:30 the flame of remembrance is rekindled by one of France's 900 veteran associations.  The flame was first lit beneath the Arc November 11, 1923 and has never gone out since.