L'Institut Vatel

My last week in Paris was eventful in the sense that I think I went out every night - it was exhausting! My colleagues took very good care of me! I have never had a send off like this. I started the week with friends at Livio (my favorite Italian in Nueilly), then at Chez Janouz in the Marais. But the ultimate meal was mid-week at L'Institut Vatel - this is a culinary school. It is named after the person that managed the kitchen and events for King Louis (I forget which one). He had such passion for his work that he killed himself when the fish was not delivered for a big event. (Now, I was told this story - it's just hearsay, you know).


But I can vouch for the institute and the meal! We had a group of 14 or so from both my company and the client. There was a special menu - "Chris Farewell", with starter of Ceviche or Foie Gras, and plates of Ris de Veau (veal), Fricassee de Homard (lobster), or Filet de Boeuf (steak). After the meal, there was an assortment of formages (cheese), and finally le chariot des desserts (about 15-20 dessert choices). It was excellent food, and also nice to be with the group I've worked with. Yes, I took all the deserts (and no, I didn't eat all of them completely - just tried a bite of each). It was a memorable night!


Then on Thursday, the "Order to Cash" team I've been working most closely with took me to lunch! Friday, the office had breakfast pastries and juice for me! It was all a bit overwhelming. I can say that I've never had such hospitality from a customer before. I was tempted not to leave, and see if I could get the treatment again a month later or so!


I spent my last Saturday in Paris taking a long walk through the most famous sights of the city. I left in the morning, followed the river to the Louvre, through Tuiliries, Place de Concorde, Champs Elysees to Arc de Triomphe, then to the Trocadero and Eiffel Tower. I got home in the evening to finish what was left of food in the apartment and reminisce on the last 6 months. It was an amazing experience - once in a lifetime opportunity that I was lucky to have.

It's a bit sad to wander Paris on your own on your las day - definately an experience best shared. But I'll close with quotation from Hemingway (I recommend A Movable Feast - read it while you're in Paris): "That was the end of the first part of Paris. Paris was never to be the same again although it was always Paris and you changed as it changed... There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it."

Au revoir.

Old and New

In case you've been following, you may have noticed no updates in the last couple weeks. Well, my computer crashed on Tuesday night 10/23 a week and a half before I returned to the US. So no updates. Still unsure if I'll be able to recover anything on it (which means I may loose one weekend of pictures - oh, and some work stuff!)

Just to catch us all up a bit, I had just 2 weeks left in Paris after returning from the US. I tried to do as much as possible during the time. But I found that I just couldn't sustain the pace (you can only go to so many museums, and eat out so many times!).

I wanted to get back to the Louvre, and also see the Pompidou. Saturday was rainy - a perfect day for the Louvre. It was a bit crowded, but I chose to skip the most popular wings and spend more time in the Sully looking at French masters - Hubert Robert, Jean-Honore' Fragonard, Decamps, and Eugene Delacroix. Took lunch in a cafe in the Richelieu wing, overlooking the courtyard. Once again, I closed the place down after about 6 hours wandering around. It is easy to spend lots of time, and even see new things. (I did swing by Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo - just seemed like the right thing to do.) After spending the day, I walked around Palais Royale and Comedie Francaise a bit and then took the #1 metro back to the Marais - it was crushed. Just did what I always do - cram in there shoulder to shoulder (or whatever). You know, before coming to Paris, the guide books suggest taking a money belt and beware of pick-pockets. After more tight metro rides than I can remember, I never saw or encountered anything like that. I don't think it's any different than anywhere else.

I decided to return to one of my favorite restaurants for dinner - Le Petit Marche'. I arrived at about 7:30 and was told that the kitchen didn't open until 7:45. So I occupied myself with a kir outside while I waited. Had the same waitress as on Debbie and my original visit (who spoke good English - so I could talk to her a bit). I had another good meal there, but it's not quite the same when you're alone. One thing I noticed is that there are not many single diners out there in Paris. It's not like in the US where you see business people out eating alone. Most everyone in the cafe, bistro, brassiere, etc. are in couples or groups. You can have a nice dinner, but I recommend you find a place with an interesting view if you're alone!

On Sunday I went to church (and learned that they set the clocks back an hour on Oct 25 - a week earlier than the US). While I waited for church, I strolled through a display of photos across from the Branly Museum. As you walk around Paris, you never know where you will see some cool public display of art or amusements. These photos were really interesting, indigenous photographers - I ended up late for church! I tried a different route back afterwards - took the RER C line (which goes along the river and drop you off at Notre Dame - just a change of pace). I noticed there was no line at the cathedral, so I went in (since I hadn't during my whole stay). So I got to experience Mass at Notre Dame, complete with incense and Latin (at least I think that was what it was).

I spent the afternoon and evening at the Pompidou - quite a change from the Louvre! I must say I prefer the older stuff. But, if you're in Paris for 6 months, and walk by the place almost every day, you have to go see it! There are some interesting things, but the best part of the Pompidou is the view from the top floor - especially as the sun sets. You can see the whole city. There's some Picasso and Chagall paintings that I like, but I can't get into the abstract stuff. There was a big display of Pierre Soulages, a French artist. Well, most of his work was different textures of black paint on huge canvases. I will say that there were lots of people there - I think it is quite popular. There was also a display of female artists that had all kinds of bizarre stuff! I'm glad I went, but I wouldn't go twice (at least not in 6 months!).

Sunny stroll on the Seine

Welcome back fellow travelers. I returned yesterday after a couple weeks in sunny Tucson AZ - to an overcast, drizzly Paris. I don't seem too jet lagged, but time will tell. I kept moving yesterday most of the time (did take a couple hour nap mid-afternoon). I managed to get a full night's sleep (with the aid of Excedrin PM) and was ready for Sunday.

Sunday was absolutely gorgeous! Paris seems a bit quieter in October (I guess I will learn for sure tomorrow when I take the RER). It was sunny and brisk. I wore my leather jacket for the first time going to church this morning. After church, there was a tour of the church, so I went on that. Learned this is the first American Church on foreign soil - established in 1814. I think the current location is the 3rd for the church, and was built in the late 1920's. There are 2 Tiffany windows (that were originally commissioned for a previous church site). They are the only 2 Tiffany windows outside the USA. The organ is from Beckerath in Hamburg, Germany, has 3,328 pipes, and weights 18 tons. Crazy, huh. In the evening, they were having a music program put on by the various church music groups (which include 4 choirs - adult, young adult, youth and kids choirs; and 2 different handbell groups). So I returned for that also.

In between, it was such an excellent day, I just walked. I decided to head for the Bombardier next to the Pantheon (British pub that has Sunday roast beef dinner with Yorkshire pudding). It is a bit of a haul, but the walk is nice along Invalides and Babylone. I was disappointed when I got there, though. The place was closed (and it's only supposed to be closed on Christmas!). They had some sort of water problem (which I could smell from outside). I didn't really have a backup plan, but I did just finish Hemingway's Movable Feast on the flight back. So I headed up rue Cardinal Lemoine to Place Contrescarpe, his old stomping grounds. There are cafes surrounding the plaza, so I just picked one and settled for croque madam (no roast beef dinner, that's for sure). There was a flea market in the square, so I just ate and watched the crowd (pictured below). Nothing of interest at the market that I could tell.

I walked back down to the river afterwards and headed back towards the church. I followed Ile de Citi on the shady north side until it ended, then crossed over to the sunny right bank. The road along the river was closed to cars, so you had lots of Parisians walking, rollerblading, cycling along. I joined the group - got a bit sun burned! By the end of the day, I think I probably put in about 8 or so miles. My legs feel like it too. Au revoir.

Back in the US of A

I left my apartment at about 8:30am on Saturday and 21 hours later emerged from the car in the driveway in Tucson - a bit groggy and worn. The initial flight from Paris was delayed about 2 hours because the radar system in Scotland that monitors our flight path was down. This cause me to miss my connection in Dallas, but I did make a later flight (just barely - last one to board). And my bags caught up with me the next night.

Well - I'm glad I don't have to do that too often. I do make the trip 2 more times in the next month, which doesn't sound great. When I consider that one of the original ideas on this project was 3 weeks in Paris, 1 week home - that would not have been good for anything except frequent flier miles! It was quite different my last trip when I flew to Boston (less than 10 hours for that - easy). I conclude that you want to live on the east coast if you plan frequent trips to Europe.

Now that I'm home, I have spent most of the week 1) in front of my computer completing my Solution Definition Documents (which I submitted yesterday - yeah!), 2) going to doctors, dentist, barber, and 3) trying to get into a sleep routine. So far, the only night I have managed to sleep past about 3 am was one with the aid of Excedrin PM and half a pitcher of margaritas. Oh yes, I have also had 2 dinners out at Leo's for Mexican food and barbecued 3 times! That was also good.

The first thing I noticed on Sunday is how wide all the streets are here - not just the main streets. Even the neighborhood streets are wider than the big streets in the Marais. Then, of course, there are mountains and a sky that goes on forever. I find that I miss the walking quite a bit. Sure it's possible to walk places, but it's not the same. First, most everyone is driving - the pedestrians are the minority by far. And as you walk, you won't pass any boulangeries, no assortment of stores for food, wine or deserts, and there are few if any outdoor cafes to take an espresso or beer. I guess that is what I noticed and missed right off. On the other hand, I have not noticed the smell of urine anywhere here!

I'm back to France a week from today - probably just as I get into proper sleeping habits again. Then 2 more weeks until I leave. I've determined that I will do something every night / day during those last weeks. No days off. I'll see how that goes for me. Stay tuned!