Doriss Girls and Féerie

Hi - it's been a busy week for us.  Our friends Pearl and Dave Miller arrived from Tucson last Saturday, and tonight is our first quiet evening since then.

We started right away, taking a walk through the mist and rain to the Eiffel Tower and then Invalides.  We picked up some ravioli, sauce and antipasti at a specialty store on Belles Feuilles that we have wanted to try, and made a meal of it at home that evening. 

Sunday, we were pleasantly surprised by warm, sunny weather.  Later, it was described as a "forced march", but at the time I just considered it a normal Paris weekend walkabout.  We started with a walk up to Arc de Triomphe and then along Champs Elysees.  Since the sun was out, it was quite a bit busier than most of our other walks.  When we got to Concord, we took a left to Madeleine and checked out the church.  We stopped at the Pinacothèque de Paris to see a special Van Gogh exhibit.  The idea behind the 40 or so paintings was to show the influence of Japanese art on Van Gogh.  There were some nice pieces, and the way they showed the influential Japanese work next to the Van Gogh was interesting.  You could see the similarities.  We stopped for lunch near Garnier Opera, and then headed down to the Louvre.  Tuileries Gardens was crowded due to a special weekend exhibit of artwork throughout the gardens and near the Grand Palais.  We returned home, walking along the river.  Along the way, we pointed things out and showed them how to get around for their return trips to the museums. 

For the rest of the week, the Millers would explore Paris on their own during the days and we would go out together each evening.  Our big night out was to Moulin Rouge.  I had purchased tickets for the 9:00pm show, with champagne (as opposed to the 11pm show).  We went to Montmartre early to walk up to Sacre-Coeur first.  While there, a group of nuns started singing (more like chanting).  It was quite lovely and soothing.  We had a restaurant recommendation (Le Relais de la Butte) which turned out to be perfect - quiet, inexpensive, and good food.  After dinner, we walked through the busy crowds on rue des Abbesses and rue Lepic (which made our restaurant choice even nicer), and queued for our entrance to Moulin Rouge. 

We were told that it didn't matter if you arrived earlier or later- seats are assigned ahead and you don't get to choose.  The floor was full - no empty seats that I could see.  And our table was off to the side, stage left, and had only one other table between us and the stage.  The only bad part was that we were crowded in, and Dave and my backs were to the stage.  The girls, on the other side of the table had great seats!  It was OK - we could sit sideways and see most everything.  The show "Féerie" featured some 20 or 30 beautiful "Doriss Girls" (dancers, sort of like Rockettes but with less clothes) and about 10 guys (they don't have a name as far as I could tell).  They all sing and dance.  There were about 4 or 5 segments to the show.  One was a circus, one was a North African harem sort of thing, one was "modern" times.  But the best was... the can-can (of course).  Also, in between segments, there were some individual acts - a juggler (that juggled ping pong balls with his mouth), a couple male gymnasts, and a mime.  These were all really good.  We really enjoyed the show!

Our last evening, we went for a nice meal at Le Bistrot d'Henri in the 6th. Debbie and I had been there once before, and liked it.  We had a great meal (bœuf bourguignon for me, salmon for the ladies, pork for Dave) and stopped at Trocadero on the way home to see the tower at night.  Overall, a great week (but tiring!). 

Rainy days in Paris

I think it has rained every day in October so far.  I'm told it has been like November - and that one can look forward to continued grey skies until spring.  Now when I go to work, it is dark (streetlights still on), an when I come home it is twilight. 

Debbie and I had to adjust our plans after last Saturday - we opted for more indoor activities.  Of course, you have to go outside to get to the indoor activities, but we thought chances of getting soaked would still be less.  Here's a quick review of activities.

Last Sunday, we skipped the open-air craft markets and went to the Louvre (along with everyone else who thought it would be a good rainy day activity).  We got their early enough that we didn't really wait very long to enter.  Once inside we went to the Islamic Art section right away.  This is a new section, just openned, and features a ceiling that is supposed to be like a flying carpet.  I liked it!  Then we saw some of the main attractions (Mona Lisa, Venus di Milo, Winged Victory), after which we headed to the Sully and Richelieu wings which are less crowded overall.  In this way, we avoided the bulk of the crowds.  It was fine - other than retracing our steps a few times because part of the Sully was closed and you couldn't get to the next wing without returning.  At the Louvre, one of the main attractions is just the building itself anyway.

Sunday evening, we had made reservations at La Fontaine de Mars, not far from the Eiffel Tower.  We met a coworker and had a nice French dinner (Debbie had a good confit de canard, and I tried cassoulet - traditional south France stew of white beans, duck, sausages and tomato - very tasty).  While there, we noticed a plaque on the wall near our upstairs table that indicated that President Obama and his wife ate there in 2009.  That helps explains the popularity (and many American voices)!  The rain had stopped so we walked home past the tower, all lit up and as empty as I've seen it.  The rain had even kept the tourists away!

Debbie had a busy week.  She had her usual activities of knitting group, yoga and homeless feeding.  But she was also invited to a charity event outside Paris.  An acquaintance from feeding owns a B&B in a small town on the RER A line, and hosted the event.  Debbie took the train out to Le Vésinet, and spent the day there.  She thought the town was nice (found a good store for purses!), and enjoyed the company.  Similar to our first visit to Paris in 2009, it seems that you start to make connections and get into the swing of things after summertime. (And then it's time to leave!)

Meanwhile, my routine has been stable.  I either work from the apartment or go into the IFS office in Courbevoie.  Mostly, I prefer to go to the office as it is fun to get to know the people there.  I also can make a point of touching base with people on the project periodically.  I usually try to have lunch with some of them once a week.  And this week, we even got together for Thai food one evening.  It's strange for me to basically be working on my own here - a big part of the fun of being here is being with a group and doing things together.  It does sound like at least one of the IFS UK team will be returning in a couple weeks, but I think we'll be working separately.  Either way, it will be nice to have someone around to have a beer with! 

Au revior!

Saint Denis

Hello from rainy Paris,

October has been none-stop clouds, cold, and rain in Paris.  I'm developing webs between my toes!  Today Debbie and I planned a trip to the edge of the 18th arrondissement to the Basilica of Saint Denis.  Saint Denis introduced Christianity to the area in the third century, and had his head removed by the Romans for his efforts.  Legend has it that the decapitated saint wandered, head in hands, to the site of the cathedral, where he was buried.  Saint Denis is the original Gothic cathedral - other famous cathedrals followed with similar designs. 

Saint Denis is also the final resting place for most of French royalty from Dogabert and Clovis I (511AD) through Louis XVIII (1824AD).  Besides the usual cathedral stained glass, impressively high ceilings, buttresses, organ, etc., there were many carved marble and stone tombs and monuments to the royalty.  The tombs and history of Saint Denis made the cathedral an interesting visit.  And it was pretty easy to get there on the #13 metro even though it is pretty much out of the way.

We thought we would check out some markets while on the north side, but the weather didn't cooperate.  We decided instead to head for one of the covered passages - Jouffroy-Verdeau in the 9th.  It was OK, but not really worth the separate trip to see (my opinion).  There were a number of restaurants and variety of shops (antiques, booksellers, tourist paraphernalia), but nothing of real interest to us.  We thought we would head for the Bastille and check out the shops along the Viaduct. 

The viaduct itself was originally a railroad right of way and converted into a promenade in 1995.  The top features a walkway and plants above the bustle of the city.  On a nice day, it's a lovely walk (today, it was deserted).  Below, the arches have been converted into upscale stores, primarily featuring home furnishings and specialty shops.  We were disappointed to find most of the stores were closed (either for lunch or due to the rain). 

When all else fails, it is time to have lunch!  We found a pleasant bistro and had some nice tartines with goat cheese and ham, and hot tea (Debbie) and wine (me).  While eating, the rain stopped so we decided to walk back past Place Bastille to Saint Paul's.  Of course, as soon as we were half way to St Paul's, it poured.  We made it to the metro, but were pretty well soaked in spite of our umbrellas.  Home to dry out - no sooner than we changed than the sun came out (only temporarily). 

Nuit Blanche

Saturday night Oct 6 Paris celebrates contemporary art along the Seine all night long.  A number of public buildings will be open, some not too far from us (in Trocadero and Palais de Tokyo).  It isn't clear exactly what this is, but it seems that there will be pieces of art, as well as performances.  Lights seem to be a major aspect of it.  However, it has been raining most of today, and still continues.  I expect that this will affect the outdoor items.  And, as Debbie's parents are here (and we were out until 1:30am last night - see more later), it doesn't seem like we will experience it.  Ce la vie.

Debbie and I have had a busy week it seems.  We went out 4 of the last 5 nights! Unheard of!  On Tuesday, we attended a small presentation at the American Library.  Marjorie Williams, author of Markets of Paris was speaking.  Coincidentally, we received her book before coming to Paris and have visited some of the markets and restaurants listed.  So we attended the talk, and had her sign our book.  Afterwards, we attempted to dine at a interesting French restaurant I had scoped out, but no tables available!  We had to settle for a Greek deli near our church (where the one other patron said hello to us, asked where we were from, then told us that he had worked in Morenci, AZ with the mines).  Small world.

Thursday, we attended a "Thurber Thursday" at American Church in Paris.  These are weekly gatherings that include a meal (chicken is very popular), then some sort of lecture/presentation and discussion.  This one featured a scholar of Islam, who is also a Christian missionary.  He presented the common ground between the religions, and promoted discussion of the common points as opposed to differences.  The lecture was a bit dry, but the questions and antidotes afterwards were interesting.  On both of these nights, Debbie and I strolled home in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.  I realized on Thursday, that I've basically gotten used to it.  Walking along under the Eiffel Tower no longer seems amazing to me!  I'm not sure how I feel about that!

But our best evening out was last night, Friday.  We had been invited to dinner at one of my French co-worker's home.  We joined some other co-workers who are from India - seven of us all together (including our host).  We had a lovely time and were treated to a full French multi-course meal!  We started with some small snacks and champagne in the living room.  Then we moved to the table where we had an entree of quiche Loraine and some white wine.  Next came the main course - chicken, cooked peppers, and potatoes. The Indian guests brought a couple of tasty Indian dishes as well.  We switched to red wine.  Lots of conversation throughout.  Once the main dish was finished, we had a little break and cleaned up.  Then on to a cheese tray.  Finally we finished with a home-made plum tarte and sweet white desert wine.  By this time, completely full and needing to walk, it was too late to get the metro!  1am!  Our hosts gave all of us a ride home!  This is the first time Deb and I had been to someones home like this.  We've dined with co-workers many times, but always out at restaurants.  Of course that's fun also, but it was special to be invited over like this.  We really appreciated and enjoyed it.

We slept in a bit to make up for our late night.  Chase (Debbie's dad) and I walked down to the Marine Museum at Trocadero around mid-day.  We had a good time looking at the paintings and large elaborate model ships.  The picture is one of Louis XIV royal barges for cruising the Seine.  There was a special exhibit of lighthouses ("phares" in French), which was interesting (earliest French light house built in 1611) .  We stopped at one of the cafes across from Trocadero for a lunch, then home again in the rain. Tonight was of 4th night out - dinner at Avenue 16e with the parents.  I think my stomach is beginning to feel permanently full!

Chantilly Cream - ooh la la!

Bon Jour,

This weekend Debbie and I took the short train ride to Chantilly to see the chateau and sample the local whipped cream.  It was an easy and comfortable trip.  I especially loved arriving 4 minutes before the train left Gare d Nord, although that was cutting it close.  There was only one stop along the way, so we were there less than half an hour later.  We stopped at the Tourism office and got a map, then walked through the town center about a mile or so to the Grand Stables.  The chateau and stables originally supported hunting in the surrounding forests.  The stable housed 250 horses and 400 dogs!  I wouldn't want to be mucking those stalls!  Today, the stables is a museum with about 30 horses (maybe a bit like Lipizzaner stallions in Austria).  The town also boasts a large hippodrome (horse racing track) - interesting contrast between the old and new...

We skipped the stables and went directly to the Chateau, which also houses the Conte Museum.  We haven't seen any chateaus this trip, so this was a pleasant change from cathedrals.  The original chateau was destroyed during the French Revolution.  It was rebuilt and refurnished during the third empire by the Duke of Aumale.  He donated the chateau to the French government providing it was maintained in the existing condition and made open to the public.  It is no Versailles, but it was OK.  There are many paintings, and a couple of Raphael's that are nice.  I would say the main attraction is the building itself, and the surrounding gardens and forests.  The grounds and landscaping are simple and filled with canals, ponds, and big chestnut trees.  It was nice to walk around and very peaceful.

We spend quite a bit of time wandering, and then walked to a nearby bar for croque Monsieurs, coke and a beer.  Then wandered a bit further to get my cream puff (excellent!).  Back to the train station and home to Paris.

Sunday, we decided to take care of one of the most important items on our to-do list - we went over to rue de Rosiers after church for falafel sandwich and Maccabee beer at L'As du Fallafel.  Best falafel I've ever had (I try them wherever I find them).  It's the spicy hot sauce that makes the difference.  We arrived to a JAMMED street.  I've never seen so many people on it.  We got a slip of paper return for a table in half an hour, which we did.  Their system worked pretty well, but we did wait about 10 more minutes inside for a table.  It was just as good as I remember - yea!

Perhaps we learned why it was so crowded afterwards when we headed towards Place de Bastille.  We started up rue de Rivoli, but met impossible crowds of dancing kids and buses with bands playing music.  The bus and kids were slowly moving down the street towards Hotel de Ville.  We thought we would wait for the bus and kids to pass, then continue on.  But then, here comes another bus.  This is when we decide to get to the St Paul metro and head home!  Only problem was the throng of humanity between us and the metro entrance.  We pushed through finally.  It was a bit fun (at least I thought so!).  I must say that our new neighborhood lacks the color and excitement of the old!

Au revior!

Ich bin ein Berliner

Hi - I'm catching up.  Last weekend, we took a brief trip to Berlin where we visited with friends Dave and Heidi from Tucson.  They were there visiting their son and his family, who live in Wedding, a suburb.  We arrived early Sunday morning and left Tuesday afternoon, and spent 3 days of intensive site-seeing!

We flew into Berlin Tegel airport on a Lufthansa flight.  It was nice to be in a small airport that didn't involve lines or miles to find a taxi.  It was a short drive to our Hotel de France (ironic).  We connected with Heidi and Dave, had a short walk to a nearby park, and then shifted into full tourist mode.  We took the U-bann #U6 directly to Friedrichstraße exit.  We walked to Unter der Linden and down to the Brandenburg Gate.  We crossed the now nonexistent wall from East to West Berlin, had a beer in the Tiergarten, and took in a late lunch at the cafe on top of the Reichstag. 
I had the "meat salad" which was basically sliced luncheon meat with cucumber relish in a jar, and Berliner Wiess - beer with raspberry syrup, which I liked.  Afterwards, we climbed the dome ramp for great views all directions.  We had a warm sunny day, which made it even better!   

We made our way to Potsdamer Platz in the evening.  This area (I'm told) was once the heart of Berlin - the "Times Square" of Berlin.  It was also the site of Hitler's Berlin bunker and was leveled at the end of WWII.  It was in the East Berlin sector and never rebuilt.  In the years since reunification, the area has been rebuilt into a modern center for business and night life.  We had a beer (yes, another beer) as the day ended and lights came on - it is a pretty impressive area. 

On our way to Potsdamer Platz, we passed the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, a stark, impressive field of granite blocks that gradually change height until you find yourself walking through a maze.  Berlin has a number of reminders of the recent past - memorials to war victims, museums depicting the crimes of Nazi Germany, crosses to commemorate those killed trying to cross from East to West Berlin, etc.  Overall, it seems that Germany has taken ownership for its past and made a serious effort to insure that things are not forgotten.  At the same time, it is moving forward.  Construction projects are all over.  The city mixes old with new quite nicely (in my opinion).  It's clean and well organized.  A bit of a contrast to Paris, where "new" is generally frowned upon.

The second day was grey and rainy.  We went to a small museum called The Berlin Story - it steps through history from the medieval days of Berlin's origin to current times.  It was fun - I learned that I don't really know much about Germany or Eastern Europe's past.  We also toured an active bomb shelter, originally completed in 1973 in case of nuclear attack.  The shelter was intended for 3600 people, packed in like sardines!  Bunks basically fill the entire area.  Food, water, etc. is intended to support those in the shelter for 40 days - then off you go!  I think I'd prefer to take my chances above as opposed to prolonging the inevitable...

We saw a number of churches - Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (which consist of both a historic bombed tower and modern buildings), Marienkirche (St. Marys), and Nicolai-Kirche (St. Nicolas).  We went to Alexanderplatz and saw the TV Tower, constructed by East Germany and the tallest structure around (2nd tallest in Europe I think).  I enjoyed my first currywurst and Berliner Pils (although, I decided I prefer my wurst without curry and sauce).

On our last day, we saw Checkpoint Charlie, visited what was Gestapo and SS Headquarters (complete with open air museum that provided a record of terror imposed in Berlin from early 1900's to 1989 and the collapse of East Germany).  We rounded off the day with a canal tour.  This provided commentary and sights from near Nikolaikircheplatz, past the Domkirche (Berlin Cathedral), and the many museums on Museum Island.  We went on to the theater area, then past the Riechstag and government buildings, and along the Teirgarten, and back.  We concluded our visit with a bratwurst and sauerkraut meal, then back to Hotel de France and on to the airport.  Arrived back a CDG, took the Air France bus to Charles de Gaulle - Étoile, and then walked home.  In bed by 11PM!  Great to be with friends and see Berlin!

Auf Wiedersehen